Saltwater Algae
Saltwater Algae, Cyano & Dino Guide
Not everything growing in a reef tank is the same. Hair algae, cyanobacteria and dinoflagellates can look similar but often require very different solutions.
Don't immediately start adding chemicals or stripping nutrients from the aquarium. Some problems are caused by excess nutrients, while others can appear when nutrients have been driven too low.
Green Hair & Turf Algae
Green strands, fuzz or thick green growth on rockGreen hair algae is one of the most common saltwater algae problems. It usually grows from rockwork and can range from short green fuzz to long flowing strands.
- Pull or scrub out as much as possible.
- Siphon loosened algae during a water change.
- Reduce overfeeding and accumulated waste.
- Turbo and Trochus snails are excellent grazers.
- Urchins can be excellent algae grazers in appropriate tanks.
- Check nitrate and phosphate.
- Clean mechanical filtration regularly.
- Reduce an unnecessarily long lighting period.
- Correct excessive nutrients gradually.
Cyanobacteria — Red Slime
Red, burgundy, purple or dark slimy sheetsCyanobacteria is bacteria rather than true algae. It often forms slimy mats across the sand or rock and can usually be siphoned away fairly easily.
- Siphon out as much as possible.
- Remove accumulated detritus.
- Improve circulation in dead spots.
- Make sure nitrate and phosphate are not bottomed out.
- Maintain good filtration and skimming.
- Clean the tank and remove as much slime as possible first.
- Fritz Slime Out can be used for persistent cyanobacteria.
- Follow the product directions exactly.
- Maintain strong aeration during treatment.
Dinoflagellates — Dinos
Brown or golden stringy growth, often with trapped air bubblesDinoflagellates often appear as brown or golden strings or slime across the sand and rocks. Bubbles frequently become trapped in the growth, especially as the lights remain on.
Dinoflagellates commonly become problematic in very clean reef aquariums where nitrate and/or phosphate have been driven extremely low or to zero.
- Test nitrate and phosphate.
- Do not keep stripping nutrients if they are already near zero.
- Siphon visible dinos from the aquarium.
- Keep the aquarium biologically stable.
- Encourage healthy competing microorganisms.
- Bring nitrate and phosphate back into measurable ranges.
- Make corrections gradually.
- Do not blindly add phosphate remover.
- UV can help with some types of dinoflagellates.
Bryopsis
Green algae with a distinctive feather or fern-like appearanceBryopsis can initially look like ordinary hair algae, but the strands develop a distinctive feathery or fern-like structure. It can be extremely stubborn once established.
- Manually remove as much as possible.
- Remove affected removable rocks when practical.
- Reduce accumulated organic waste.
- Some grazers may pick at it, but don't rely on livestock alone.
- Bryopsis can be much harder to eliminate than ordinary hair algae.
- BlueLife Flux Rx is an option for persistent Bryopsis.
- Follow the complete product directions carefully.
Brown Diatoms
Soft dusty brown coating on sand, rock and glassDiatoms look like a dusty brown coating and are extremely common in newer saltwater aquariums. They often appear during the normal maturation of a new reef.
- Give a newer aquarium time to mature.
- Clean the glass normally.
- Siphon the surface of the sand when needed.
- Trochus and Astrea snails graze surface growth.
- Urchins can help clean established rockwork.
- Use good-quality RODI water.
- Continue normal maintenance.
- Avoid making major changes just because diatoms appear.
- They often decline as the aquarium matures.
Bubble Algae
Smooth green bubbles growing from rockworkBubble algae forms round green bubbles that may occur individually or in clusters. It commonly grows in crevices where it can be difficult to reach.
- Carefully remove bubbles from the rock when possible.
- Remove affected rocks for cleaning when practical.
- Emerald crabs may eat bubble algae.
- Reduce excessive nutrients and trapped detritus.
- Physical removal is usually the first choice.
- Don't rely on a general algae treatment as the primary solution.
- Keep the aquarium clean to reduce regrowth.
Leftover food and organic waste can accumulate in the sand and rockwork, feeding nuisance algae and cyanobacteria. A clean-up crew helps, but it does not replace normal aquarium maintenance.
If nitrate or phosphate is high, reduce it gradually through improved maintenance, water changes and nutrient control. If nitrate or phosphate is already zero, do not automatically add more nutrient-removing media.
BlueLife Phosphate Rx — for situations where phosphate actually needs to be reduced.
Brightwell NeoNitro · Brightwell NeoPhos — for situations where nutrients are too low.
Which Clean-Up Crew?
Different animals are better suited for different jobs.
Trochus Snails
Urchins
Astrea
Urchins
Turbo Snails
Conchs
The Simple Wet Pets Plan
Some algae is completely normal in a saltwater aquarium. The goal is a stable reef where nuisance growth remains under control. If you aren't sure whether you're looking at algae, cyanobacteria or dinoflagellates, take a clear photo and bring it to Wet Pets Aquatics along with your nitrate and phosphate results. Correct identification can completely change the recommended treatment.